Meriv çawa çîçek bi xeta xweya sereke ve girêdide

Before choosing a binding method, you need to decide on the type of leash. At first glance, anglers use only two types – a straight leash, which is a continuation of the main line, and a side leash, as if extending from the base to the side at a right angle. In fact, the situation is somewhat more complicated, but for a beginner, this assumption can be accepted.

Retractable leash type

This is often called a leash that is attached to the end of the main fishing line and is its continuation. This type is used in float gear, when fishing on a feeder, it is often used for spinning. The main fishing line is thicker, and the leash is made a little thinner. Or use a fishing cord as a basis. In this case, the leash can be made of fishing line, its thickness is usually greater than that of the cord. They can be attached using simple fishing knots, but it is best to use special inserts such as swivel or American.

The main purpose of the leash is to make the section of line in front of the hook thinner. This is done for two reasons: a thin fishing line scares off the fish less, and in the event of a hook, only the leash with the hook came off, and the rest of the tackle would be intact.

As a rule, the fear that in the event of a hook in the tackle without a leash the equipment will be lost is unnecessary. In practice, this is possible, but unlikely. Usually, even on a thin line, a break occurs near the hook, and you can safely use the equipment without a leash.

On a leash, they usually do not use a sinker, or a single load is placed, which is located not far from the hook and serves to quickly immerse the nozzle, and sometimes takes part in registering a bite. The main load is not put on a leash for two reasons: in order not to injure a thin line by moving the sinker along it when setting up the tackle and in order to avoid breaking it when casting, when the dynamic load from the weight of the sinker is large enough.

Leads “in line” usually do not cause big problems with entanglement. But they are not excluded. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to use the proper types of tying, swivels that prevent the leash from twisting, choose the right casting technique.

For example, casting with a feeder during smooth acceleration will not allow the tackle to get tangled, and the hook will fly far from the sinker. If you cast abruptly, the leash will not have time to straighten up and may overwhelm the main line. All sorts of deformations and wear of the leash also contribute to this, which is why they need to be changed often.

Side leash

It is attached to the main line not at its end, but slightly higher. This is done so that something else can be placed at the end: a load, a feeder, another leash, and so on. Side leashes are used for catching tyrants, donks of the “Soviet” type. Sometimes side leashes are also found in other rigs. For example, the feeder, if an inline installation is used, is equipped with a straight leader. And when they use the Gardner loop, then in fact this is already a side way of attaching the leash.

The main disadvantage of side leashes is that they are much more likely to overwhelm the main line with straight ones. This is the main reason why it is better to use the usual direct method of fastening, even with one leash. There can be many reasons for this – from poor-quality fishing line for a leash to the wrong method of attachment. The main idea of ​​almost all attachment methods is that the leash should not hang along the line, but should be bent at an angle of ninety degrees to the side or even higher so that they do not get confused.

Side leashes have a lot of nuances when attaching. For example, when using a Gardner loop, the leash should be lower than the feeder to avoid tangling. And in equipping the classic “Soviet” donkey, it is advisable to make them from a fairly stiff and not too thin fishing line. For winter fishing with a fishing rod on several hooks, the side leashes are “bent” from the fishing line with the help of cambrics or rubber stoppers. Usually the angler chooses individually for himself a good method of fastening, with which he does not get confused and uses it.

Sliding leash

For fastening the hook, it is not used very often. Usually these are some specific equipment, such as fishing on a ring or a donk with a float, when it is necessary that the tackle be able to move relative to a fixed load or an anchor lying on the bottom. In feeder fishing, in jig fishing, on a sliding leash, they usually attach not a bait, but a sinker or a feeder. At the same time, in the general sense, such equipment is not a leash, since there is no bait with a hook on it, and specific materials are used for the “leash” – up to a thick metal wire.

There are not too many advantages to a sliding leash. It has two main disadvantages. The first is that, compared to a side leader, it gives an even greater chance of tangling tackle. The second is that tackle with a sliding leash, on which the bait is directly located, gives a greater likelihood of fish coming off.

Due to the need to choose an additional sliding freedom of the leash, the hook will be much weaker. Because of it, the bite will not be visible so well.

When using a rig with a sliding leash in general, one should be careful, as it is likely to be ineffective. If a sinker or other piece of equipment is used as a sliding one, this is a completely normal situation.

Meriv çawa çîçek bi xeta xweya sereke ve girêdide

There are several binding methods. You should always use only proven methods, and be wary of new or unfamiliar ones. It is possible that the “on the table” method will turn out to be good, but in practice, in the water, in the cold, the binding will begin to unravel, crawl, get tangled, and will be too difficult to perform in bad weather conditions.

Loop to loop

A fairly simple and common method of binding. It consists in the fact that a loop is made at the point of contact between the main line and the leash. And at the free end of the leash – the same. The loop on the leash is put on the analogue in the main line, and then the hook is passed through the main line.

The result is an Archimedean knot, a very strong connection. Usually, line breakage almost never occurs at this knot, since this is where double strength is formed. The main breaks occur either on the line or leash itself, or at the place of the loop when it is somehow done incorrectly.

Formally, the loop-to-loop connection allows you to change leashes without resorting to knitting additional knots. It is enough just to slide the loop of the leash behind the loop on the main line, pull out the hook and remove the leash. In fact, due to the fact that fishing lines are usually made thin, this can be difficult to do. Therefore, changing leashes directly on a fishing trip can be difficult. Usually, in the case when the leash is difficult to replace, it is simply cut off, the remnants are removed and a new one is put in, with a ready-made loop.

When knitting loops, there are various ways. The simplest and most common is to use the “fishing loop” knot. It is done quite simply:

• The fishing line in the place of the loop is folded in half;
• The resulting loop is assembled into a ring;
• The tip of the loop is passed through the ring at least two times, but not more than four;
• The knot is tightened;
• The resulting tip, threaded through the ringlet, is straightened. This will be the finished loop.

It is very important that the number of passes through the ring is at least two. Otherwise, the strength of the loop will be insufficient, and it may untie. This is especially important for hard lines, it is best to thread them three or more times. However, with a large number, too, do not overdo it. Too many turns will increase the knot size. It will become difficult to pass the leash through the loop, and the likelihood of overlaps increases.

One of the main tools of the angler, which allows you to knit loops, is the loop tie. You can get such a device for a modest price, and the benefits from it are invaluable. It will allow you to knit loops of the same size, very quickly. With it, you can not prepare leashes for fishing at all, but knit them immediately on the spot. This is very convenient, because the leash is not such a small item, and the leashes in it are not always kept in perfect condition.

Advanced Fishing Knot

Quite often, when tying hooks, a “clinch”, or the so-called fishing knot, is used. Another variety of it is known as the “improved clinch”, “snake”, “improved fishing knot” used for tying leashes.

This knot is used for tying straight leashes, for connecting two lines, especially often for tying a shock leader. Knitting a knot in this way is quite difficult, and it is not always suitable for thin lines. The knitting process is as follows:

• One fishing line is laid on top of the other so that they run parallel with the tips to each other;
• One of the lines is wrapped around the other 5-6 times;
• The tip is returned to the beginning of the turns and passed between the lines;
• The second fishing line, in turn, is also wrapped around the first, but in the other direction;
• The tip is returned to the beginning of the turns and passed parallel to the tip of the first fishing line;
• The knot is tightened, having previously moistened.

Such a knot is good because it easily passes through the winding rings of the rod. This is completely unnecessary for leashes, but for tying two lines, tying a shock leader can be useful. Also, this knot, when tightened, has a very small size, so it scares away fish less than others.

“Nail”

The method is quite simple, it is also used for tying straight leashes. To knit this knot, you must have a hollow oblong object on hand, such as an anti-twist tube. The binding order is as follows:

• At the tip of the main fishing line, a locking knot is knitted and an oblong tube is applied to it;
• Around the tube and the main line wrap the tip of the leash several times;
• The free end of the fishing line of the leash is passed through the tube;
• The tube is pulled out of the knot;
• The knot is tightened, having previously moistened.

This knot is good because it is much easier to knit than the previous one, although it is larger in size.

When knitting, it is not at all necessary to drag the tip of the fishing line through the tube to the very end, it is quite enough that it goes into it a little and does not fall out when pulled out. Therefore, it is not necessary to take the tip of the leash with a margin for the entire length of the tube.

"Heşt"

An alternative way to knit leashes for the loop-in-loop method. Runs slightly faster than described above. The fishing line is folded in half, then a loop is made, then the base is folded in half again, wrapped around itself, the loop is threaded into the first loop. The connection is quite strong, the knot is small, but its strength is lower than the version with a double or triple turn.

Attaching leashes without knots

To connect a leash without knots, a knotless clasp, the so-called American, is used. It is used in jig fishing, but with great success it can be used for feeder and other types of bottom fishing, where there is a clasp. Fastening in this way is a revival of the ancient traditions of knotless fasteners, which were previously used to tie clothes, belts, bags, ropes, ship rigging, fishing nets and other gear, but are now universally forgotten.

The knotless clasp is made of thick wire and has a loop of a special configuration with a hook at one end, the second end makes it possible to bring a fishing line there from the side. It is folded in half, put on a hook, wrapped around the fastener several times and then inserted into another loop. The free end of the line is cut off. The base is attached to the american loop with a carabiner.

Fastening with swivel, carabiners and clasps

In most cases, it is desirable to use swivels to attach leashes. Even on a light float rod, a leash tied with a swivel is much less likely to get confused and twisted. Not to mention the fact that the swivel reduces the likelihood of large fish breaking the line.

For fishing, it is required to select swivels of the smallest size and weight. Their design is of no importance. Even a small swivel will usually be many times stronger than the fishing line used by the fisherman, so there is no point in worrying about their strength. Another thing is to be able to easily pass through the eye of the swivel the loop of the leash, the main fishing line, the clasp, hang the winding ring, etc. It is from this that the size of the swivel should be selected.

Fastening can be carried out in the already described way loop in the loop. In this case, the loop is put on the swivel, and the second end of the leash is threaded through its second end. It turns out a connection that at least slightly differs from the Archimedean loop, but repeats its functionality. Another method of fastening is using a clinch knot. This method is preferable, but if you decide to remove the leash, you will have to cut it, as a result, when used again, it will become a little shorter.

Fasteners are an element of fishing equipment that allows you to remove or hang its components on a fishing line by a ring without the use of knots. The fastening method with the help of fasteners is used by feederists, spinningists, bottomers, but floaters – almost never. The fact is that the fastener will have a significant weight, and this will affect the loading of the float and its sensitivity.

The clasp should be large enough so that it can be easily used in the cold and at night. Feederists often fasten the feeder on the fastener so that they can quickly change it to a smaller, larger, lighter or heavier one. For a spinner, this is the main way to replace the bait – it is almost always fastened with a fastener. Another name for the clasp is a carabiner. Often the fastener is made combined with a swivel. This is convenient, since a hinge is formed at the junction, and the leash will not twist.

The use of compounds depending on the method of fishing

Basically, modern anglers catch on spinning, feeder or float fishing rods.

How to tie a leash to a spinning line

As a rule, braided fishing line and a leader made of tungsten, fluorocarbon or other materials that the fish cannot bite are used for spinning. Or, specific leash equipment for jig fishing is used. Here it is desirable to make all connections collapsible so that they can be removed, disassembled and then put another leash in case of emergency. In jig fishing, this is also true, almost never a retractable leash or other equipment is tightly knitted to the fishing line.

Feeder

In feeder fishing, the leash binding depends significantly on what equipment will be used here.

For example, for inline rigging, there are no special restrictions on the binding methods, but here it is simply desirable to put a swivel in front of the leash so that the load stopper does not fall through the knot, but rests on it. For the Gardner loop, the leash must be longer than the loop itself, so the equipment itself is selected to fit the chosen method of fishing. Also for other types of equipment.

float fishing

In float fishing, they usually try to minimize the number of connections and use the thinnest line possible. Therefore, they often catch without a leash at all, especially if they use a fishing rod without rings and a reel. The use of a reel in equipment forces the use of a thicker line, at least 0.15, since a thin one will quickly become unusable due to friction and it will have to be changed often.

To attach the leash, they use such an element of equipment as a micro swivel. It is attached to the main line. The leash to it can be put in different lengths and types, including two hooks. The use of a micro swivel will reduce the likelihood of entanglement and increase the life of the tooling. It will wear out less and won’t need to be replaced often. The most suitable way to tie a micro swivel is a clinch knot, but you can also use a loop in a loop.